An intoxicating walk of willow and marsh

This was always going to be a walk of willow and marsh and it did not disappoint, and there were some awesome other creatures and nature as well. Continuing my trip along the Angles way, to almost complete the whole trail. To do a walk round Suffolk I knew would entail key public transport at some point either to get back to my car or to do the walk entirely. I have to say it is much easier in the East of the county than the West. There is a big difference between these two sections of the county; In the West you have large numbers of single occupancy farmland or institutionally owned farmland , sparser villages altogether a more remote and distant land however  in the East there are smaller farms and it could also be that the East has a history of engagement maybe? There’s also the coast which leads to a greater Holiday industry too not to mention the Ports, rivers and trading therein and the staff needed to accommodate. Altogether a very a different feel between the two halves of the County from a walkers perspective anyway.

This walk I had planned to do by driving to Brundall in Norfolk, catching the train to Lowestoft. From there, boarding the train to Beccles and then walking back to Lowestoft. At the end of the walk, I would return to Brundall either by train, providing  times permitted as they only run every 2 hours, or there was the half hour service the X1 bus that would hopefully take me from Lowestoft to Acle and then the train back to Brundall. It sounds even more complicated when explained like this, however it actually worked like clockwork.

My train journey was actually slightly complicated and I mused the difference pre Beeching would have made. However it is a very picturesque journey to Lowestoft across the marshland. I then left Lowestoft and arrived at Beccles and jumped off the train ready to begin my walk. There’s an hourly service between the towns of Ipswich and Lowestoft now due to a new Beccles loop that has been opened allowing trains to pass. Beccles was a big station. It used to be the point where the trains from London would either go to Gt Yarmouth or Lowestoft. I tried to imagine in the Victorian and Edwardian times just how many people would have passed through this station. In those days factories would close for two weeks, unpaid of course and people would come by the train load to the sea side. There would be Yorkshire week, Scots week, Luton week etc. where shoe factories would charter special trains to go to Gt Yarmouth or Lowestoft. A huge industry which together with Fishing, Wood, Grain and exports made Gt Yarmouth and Lowestoft buzzing places.

Here at Beccles you can almost hear the ghosts of those past travellers in the air. As you leave the platform over the footbridge remember this use to go over several lines, so now it seems an odd shape. The station itself, now a furniture store, would have had porters, waiting rooms, warm fires in the winter and an efficient and punctual Station Master who would have lived in one of the bigger houses close by. If you look at the buildings as you leave the station you see what would have been the Station Hotel, a couple of pubs and a shop now all turned into houses their function lost or changed. I mused  the excited voices of times gone by, the bustling businesses  the steam and heaps of coal this scene in your, your mothers, or perhaps your

grandmothers life time.

Leaving my imagination and the ghosts I walked back towards the river on this edge of the town. Beccles and its sister market town Bungay just five miles away were centres of trade, agriculture, with important rivers. These were rich towns; look at the merchant’s houses and church in Beccles high street or Bungay high street for evidence of its past existence. All around the town you see evidence of what was the wool trade and an agricultural industry or wealthy blacksmiths, people mending boats, unloading cattle for sale etc. These market towns thrived as centres or hubs for the surrounding areas. Now of course the printers have almost gone the cattle markets and Wherries certainly have, and the two mighty market towns are now somewhat dormitory towns to that bigger hub Norwich. I know I generalise here and people will object to being called a dormitory town but deep down you know what I mean.

Arriving at the river I walked through a field of what was disturbed land. Evidence of this is the huge swathes

of Horseradish together with nettles and brambles. I must say isn’t it a great year for blackberries after that cold winter? It smelt wonderful as the sun warmed the leaves and as I walked through, the movement made the smell waft up to meet me wonderful for the nasal passages! It was here I also saw what I think was the prize view on the walk and I was only 15 mins into it. Flying past with speed was a Clouded Yellow Butterfly; such strong flyers it was hard to keep up with it, let alone photograph it.(Hence the reason for the stock photo below rather than my own) Basically a migrant  or immigrant arriving here in the 1940’s they say they now over winter and are able to breed but cold or wet winters take their toll.

I walked up the river wall, passed the great archaeological dig that has been carried out several times over the last five years. Wooden oak posts, 67 of them actually and a platform were uncovered in what would have been a landing stage or walk way. In ancient times 2000+ years ago the river would have been roughly where it is now but much less canalised and walled. The river would have gone out of the flooded river valley what is now Lake Lothing near Lowestoft. Ships would have come up here to Beccles easily and the fresh water, the grasslands, the trees and the higher ground made it ideal for settlement and trade, again showing what a strategic position many of our villages and towns in this part of the world originated from. Think of the trading which would have taken place from parts of Europe and the South, this would have been a thriving hub even back then. Don’t you just Love Norfolk and Suffolk?  As I walked on I also thought how we have become conditioned and hidebound by political boundaries.  Water, birds, butterflies in fact all natural capital isn’t aware of these boundaries.

The river wall carried on and for the stretch of the walk the river was tre- lined, only giving the occasional glimpse of the river itself. It was so quiet. I have noticed on some of these walks around Suffolk how you can get to places for a short time where the traffic is masked, the aircraft are gone and all you get is wildlife and natural sounds. This was the case as I walked up the river. It certainly was a scene of marsh and willow. Huge Crack Willows, as they are locally known, grow tall, split, fall over, regenerate and re grow leaving a knarled fibrous trunk that rots while the newly fallen section roots and grows its a great way to make sure you survive. The occasional Oak I spotted too but it was Willows and Alder for most of the way.

It was a hot day so the smell of the marshes was sweet. Hemp Agrimony in flower wafted in the air full of insects and bees, coupled with the general smell of the marsh which is intoxicating. I came across a building and like in the last blog on Breydon, this housed the drainage pump. Again from the stains of the ground this was once a diesel pump, now electric, showing the progress of time.

As I left the building I saw the tell-tale signs of blue engineering bricks. These hardened bricks are used in places where strength and support are needed. Classic signs of something big and probably Victorian. Getting closer it was the bridge supports for the old railway line to Gt Yarmouth. As I mentioned earlier, Beccles was where the line from Gt Yarmouth joined what is now the East Suffolk Line to London via Ipswich. Branch lines to Lowestoft and Bungay, then Harleston and Tivetshall, now just a crossing on the modern Norwich to London Line. This bridge was once the mainline to London from Gt Yarmouth, how things change.

Moving on I stopped again at one of the fishing platforms to look at the river and have a drink. A blue flash caught my eye. For a micro second I thought it was the reflection of my drink bottle in my glasses but quickly realised it was the flash of a kingfisher disappearing up stream. A great sight I love kingfishers. Most of their colour comes from the light refracting in the feathers, underneath the feathers are quite black. A great fisherman and a sign the life in the rivers which is good. Quite conscious now of the boat traffic I moved on

I had noticed along the bank from Beccles it was mown quite close. Looking at the re growth it looks like it was mown some time ago. I felt a bit annoyed as I calculated this might still have been in the breeding season for many birds and insects. Having spent 25 years managing land and landscapes I know these things have to be managed but its timing and methods that make the difference.

 I soon came up to a sign that said the path ahead was being mown and sure enough two great flails were cutting the bank and berm between the soak dyke and the river wall. Soak Dykes, so called as they soak away any water seeping through the river walls, sometimes called Borrow Dykes for the reason that the mud was borrowed to create the wall, are important for wildlife.

Now I know the Environment Agency is responsible for these walls and keeping them clear helps keep the wall from being damaged by vegetation and obviously  prevents flooding.  The drainage engineers will always say that prevention of flooding is the primary concern, to save life and limb. I wouldn’t want flooding for anyone but at times I do think we are a little obsessed with neatness.

We have been conditioned as humans and especially over the last 100 years or so that neat is good scruffy is bad, but this isn’t the case. We need that variety of height, species, and diversity of habitats to ensure nature or our natural capita survives. Our obsession with neatness comes with a heavy price for nature there has to be a balance surely? I hope that the case here is that the banks are cut every 3 to 5 years rather than annually and in stretches at different times so we achieve bank stability but also maximise nature’s chances of the nettles being the host to butterfly eggs and other life giving and essential insects.

I have to say though this was the most fantastic walk for dragonflies. I know timing is right, but  there were chasers, darters, hawkers all over the place and at least two species of blue damsel fly as well. Constantly around me dragonflies were flying eating and mating. So impressive to see two dragonflys mating on the wing, imagine the red arrows flying with that precision! Maybe my analogy is going wrong here about mating and flying and the red arrows I meant the precise flying, oh never mind you know what I mean J I wasn’t carrying my dragonfly book but ruddy darter, blue chaser and migrant hawkers were certainly around me.

Continuing on I said hello to two chaps who appeared to have walked from Lowestoft. They were looking for Barnby and one looked worse for wear! So I showed them where they were on the map which path to take and bade them farewell. The walk from here on the wall widened out and you could see a long way either side of the valley. You could also see in the very distance the tower and grain silos of Lowestoft port. Sometimes I like this because it gives you  a land mark or a focal point but also the devilish side in your brain says it shows how far you still have to walk as these silos are right by the train station in Lowestoft - at least 5 miles away!

The marshes were still grazed by cattle, a great thing for this part of Norfolk and Suffolk, huge beasts of many varieties great to see; natural marsh beef must be tastier and better for you than housed grain and silage fed cattle. It made me think about the Archers and the debate over the super dairies Brian Aldridge wanted to build. Economically sound I’m sure for a business accountant farmer, morally good? It’s a debate of our times as farming, industry and life becomes more industrial and efficient. I can see both cases but question if it’s good in the long run for people and natural capital, I do wonder if we don’t just need to stop and think occasionally.

I passed Castle Marshes, a Suffolk Wildlife Trust reserve, and continued to Carlton Marshes SWT reserve where I knew I had to get to for the turn back into Oulton Broad. As I turned inland on the footpath from the wall to skirt round the end of Oulton Broad, I noticed the first piece of arable land on the walk. Not the best crop I have seen, I did wonder how this stacked up economically I have to say. I always seem to be complaining about footpaths damaged by ploughing and this was again noticeable. I know having driven tractors all my life and ploughed many a field that it is not easy to always drop the plough where you want it if you are trying to finish a job but it is just lazy to just drop the plough over a footpath and carry on knowing the plough will cut into where people walk.

I walked up to Carlton Marshes nature reserve and popped in to make sure I was on the right path, a lovely lady made sure I knew which path to take and I carried on my way.

Oulton Broad hoved into view with its yacht stations, boats, parks, seats, and ice-cream all essential parts of Oulton. Essentially the most easterly of the peat diggings that formed the boards, it is separated from Lake Lothing and the sea by a lock. Fresh water it is part of the Broads scene. Busy in the east and quieter in the west. When I was a lad, as they say, we used to come here to watch power boat racing. Getting one of those Ice creams, I am so partial to a Mr Whippy (my son and I are on a life quest to find the best 99. Diamasco van at Great Yarmouth harbour hold the title at the moment served with a welcome by Richard, it is one of the most fabulous 99’s you will ever have. Closely followed by a Kelly’s 99 at the Welsh show last year!) Anyway back to the walk.

On the map there was a footpath going under the railway bridge and back to Lowestoft from the mini roundabout near the Wherry Hotel. I found it; it has to be the smallest footpath I have seen and the battered sign holding in there was a welcome direction. A section no wider than one and half people to me to the railway bridge and beyond.

I have to say I love the natural world, without a doubt it is where I am most comfortable but I do love heritage, buildings and our built history and archaeology. I am passionate about reading landscapes, interpreting them and that of course means the social and heritage parts as well as nature.

 I was part of and Chair of the Heritage Lottery Fund for the East of England for nearly 10 years. It was the most enjoyable exciting and challenging thing I have ever been appointed to. The HLF Team in this Region are absolute stars and a lot of the heritage grants, opportunities and delivery is down to that great team working with applicants to get the best for the money that you give from your lottery ticket as 4p in very pound goes to the Heritage Lottery. Without this money, buildings, museums, art,  history, market towns, nature, railway engines, life boats,  you name it Heritage is all around us, and HLF have been so key in increasing value to Tourism, and the economy as well as conserving, preserving, and enhancing our heritage and communities. Visit their website and see the great work they have done. I recommend it, you never know you might be eligible to apply for a grant for a project near you, they will soon tell you.

Back to the path and why I diverted into talking Heritage Lottery for a second, the path now takes you through some of our industrial past. Not only do you see Lake Lothing, a drowned valley we have spoken about in previous blogs in the Stour but one which has an interesting past. It is thought that the Danes and Vikings especially, exploited the drowned valleys and easy boat access to penetrate far into East Anglia especially, Norfolk and Suffolk. Again, as with the blog on Breydon water ,the Lake was open to the sea it is thought till at least medieval times before a sand bar covered the entrance. It was re-opened and trade continued when the route to Norwich was re-established and the New cut opened.

The footpath goes through boat yards and works sometime right in front  of the workshops, You can imagine

this was a shoreline before the concrete and the fencing, and boats were hauled up, being repaired by marine carpenters and experts, pitch and tar was boiling in vats to be painted onto the wood for sealing and repairs, a hive of industry and it is the SAE today, boats everywhere in various states of repair or construction fascinating array of winches, steel ropes oils rust and slipways - I love it.

From here the path crosses the railway again this time by bridge. You drop into what was clearly heathland of some kind at some point. Sandy soils, ferns and bracken, gorse and a pine tree, a real relic of landscapes past. The community and council have created a footpath system through what is now a community wetland. I saw several mothers with young children looking over the ponds, one with a net, pond dippin,. all at home in what some would call wasteland. I was heartened that people didn’t see this as scary and a no go place despite it being secluded over grown in places, and probably not where they want to be at night but during the day they could claim this as their own.

Emerging from here you walk along the main road alongside the docks, or what were the docks. Converted to shopping experiences here were warehouses and businesses with easy access to rail and boat. Things change but again the historic architecture is all around if you look up about the shop fronts or behind the new buildings often great examples of old workshops or warehouses can be seen. The rows of terrace houses were again another age, Victorian I suggest, now homes for many people some cutting hedges, polishing window’s and chatting as I passed, you could sense a  real community here I thought.

I arrived at the bus station from the high street; ‘left at O2’ someone told me and so I waited only 10 minutes to get the bus. The X1, a bus from Lowestoft to Peterbourgh via Kings Lynn. Wow what a trip to do on a bus! Hmm not sure that ‘great’ is the right superlative here; think of the communities villages and places it serves on the way. I jumped on with some trepidation, the X1 is not known for its friendly bus drivers, its reputation you hear however received is legendary, but that’s the challenge and I did get a smile from this bus driver, he was fine.

A bumpy old journey of nearly an hour got me back to Acle and a short walk to the station to catch the train to Brundall and finally my car. Yes I could have just gone from Acle to Lowestoft at the start but I wanted to experience different types of public transport to see if I could get them to work and they do in the majority of cases, you just need to plan and work out the journey times and connections. I enjoyed this walk. It was hot, I got though plenty of sun cream, but very enjoyable with lots to see and experience.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about this latest walk, I’ve now completed my own personal One Million Steps challenge walking around Suffolk, and so I've decided to keep going and aim for two million by Christmas!! I hope I’ve inspired some of you to take up the Healthy Ambitions One Million Steps #OMS challenge too – it all begins on Monday 16^th and that’s also the date you can see a précis of this walk featured in the East Anglian Daily Times. To see who is walking #OMS around Suffolk check out the website or follow their progress on Facebook 

Until next time, happy walking

Richard