Monday, 20 May 2013

Cliffs, kneebones and why you really need to check out your bluebells


1 Million Steps challenge round Suffolk Phase I Shotley Marina to Manningtree Station 

The day looked fine as I looked out of the window, so I left catching the 07:15 train to Ipswich arriving at 8:20 I left the station went across the road to the bus stop waiting for the Ipswich Bus service number 2O2 to take me to Shotley Marina.
The bus duly arrived and off we went to Shotley.  I went straight upstairs to the front seat, well you just have to don’t you; it immediately brought back many memories of bus journeys as a child. I now of course realise how sea sick my poor mother must have been upstairs, as I sat there as a young boy, this time seeing the journey through adult eyes swaying and bumping along the winding Suffolk streets!!
Travelling along we went under the Orwell bridge enjoying the view of other people’s houses and gardens until Felixstowe Docks hove into view. Next it was a short journey downhill until finally the last stop - Shotley Marina.
I jumped off the bus and, after taking a few photographs of the watery vista, set off on my journey towards Manningtree. 
The first part of the trek was fairly straightforward, taking the gravel path along by the River’s edge. The Stena Line Ferry was leaving, presumably for Holland, and there was an acrid engine oil smell in the air. I continued along the river, admiring as I walked, the gardens coming down towards the path. The iron pilings finished and the path turned inland slightly until I reached Erwarton Bay an RSPB reserve.
My journey continued through past the back of some houses and now I found myself on top of the cliff. When I say cliff, readers from Western Scotland would say this is clearly not a cliff more a ‘step’ not very high, perhaps 20 feet or 6 metres if you’re not old style like me. The cliffs are made from outwash gravels as the Stour is a drowned valley formed by melt waters of the last glaciation, the gravels form the mainly flint and crag deposits. I know there are many fossils to be found within these deposits. In fact I found one myself -  what I think perhaps is a knee bone.
The footpath follows the arable fields. In several places along this trip I found that the footpath had been cut into quite severely by the plough. I cheekily thought these must be UKIP farmers, i.e. not really interested in subsidies from Europe, subsidies that allow footpaths and nature to be looked after. I found myself thinking that in these situations it also begs the question, why are they cut so close to the path? Doing that means the crop and soil can't be as productive as the rest of the field. I know farmers will tell me it’s all about weed control et cetera but I do think it puts farmers and walkers into conflict.  After all, we’re not talking about a huge area of land here needed for walkers, providing somewhere to tread therefore wouldn’t take much, it is after all the Stour and Orwell 'footpath'.

On I continued, my journey made quite difficult with thorns and blackberry as well as other bushes and shrubs growing over the footpath and at one point walking alongside bright yellow Oilseed Rape, which made me sneeze!  Its vivid colour loved by some hated by others; I actually took a couple of photos of it, as I quite like its stark backdrop it makes the trees stand out beautifully. It might not last long but do agree it does pong!
For the very first leg of my journey, it was a fantastic walk; areas were full of birds and wildlife I have listed all the birds that I saw below. The list is quite long from Wades to Song Birds and not only birds there were also a lot of butterflies too especially Peacocks, Orange tips.

A multitude of plants stretched out in front of me as I walked, including Alexander now quite tall and in full flower. Quick history lesson now - Alexander was brought over by the Romans as part of a salad crop which is now firmly established in the British countryside and it’s one of the first umbelliferae family to flower and breakthrough in the spring; fresh green leaves you can spot on the side of the roads and footpaths.  I also passed several what I took to be, passable tall boundary Oaks perhaps 200 years old, all looking majestic, and now coming into full leaf.

Just after Holbrook school I stopped at Stutton church for a quick rest and welcome cup of coffee from my trusty flask.  I realised I was nearly two thirds of the way through the walk already. Stutton Church - my    what
a fantastic church and churchyard too with a wonderful memorial seat overlooking the duck pond.
I had tweeted earlier and received a reply and encouragement from Mark Nowers the RSPB South Suffolk Manager, as I left the church yard Mark suddenly came into view; great to see him again after such a long time.  I wished him and his family well, after catching up including finding out that his poor wife was eight days late for the arrival of number two I was on my way again.

Holbrook Bay Naval School, (The Royal Hospital School) a dominant building on the landscape. It's ordered grass playing fields and fences a change to the disorder of the countryside surrounding it. It was very quiet I assumed it must be perhaps half term rather than a day when everyone was inside. Opposite the school on the other side of the estuary is the site of the former proposed prison at Wrabness. I remember this being very controversial when I worked the RSPB and people in Suffolk objecting because of the views across the estuary. In hindsight, when you look across the river I'm glad that the prison wasn't built because I do think this would've been a bit of an eye sore.
From the church you have to walk inland through Stutton and I passed through one of the large farms before being able to walk down the footpath to join the estuary and the river wall again. This is quite a detour inland and takes you through farmland. The footpath, once you leave the track through the farm at the small quarry, is very eroded. I found at times that I had to step over the farmer’s fence to be able to walk along the footpath in safety.

Entering the woods I was met by a sea of of bluebells. Did you know, the UK holds about 25% of the world resource of Bluebells?  Go into your garden and have a look and see if the ones you have in your garden are British bluebells bells, you’ll know by seeing if the bells are down one side. If not you’ve got the Spanish ones with bells all round and a variety of colours. The Spanish ones if allowed into the wild will eventually supersede ours as they are a stronger species.  So if you want to help preserve ours, you’ll need to get to the garden centre!
Once I left the wood and came into the open Mistley and Manningtree were clearly visible in the distance. I became aware of the trains going over the bridge on the mainline, their rhythmic chunterings strangely comforting and quite noticeable after the majority of my walk had been engine noise free. I walked along the sea wall for at least two miles before diversions took me in land for a bit then I climbed up the valley to what seemed like an old wood yard. This is where I heard the melodic sound of the Nightingale singing away. (I’ve attached a short clip so you can hear it too)



Crossing the railway bridge, I followed the railway track back for a while, passing through the edge of the old paint works at Cattawade. Over the old footbridge I joined the A137 back to Manningtree station. I was welcomed by some cheese and tomato sandwiches from the Station Bar - famous for its watering and feeding ability with good beer, good coffee and rather good locally made sandwiches.
This very first leg and I’ve taken 30000 steps already as part of my one million steps challenge. If you’d like to follow me or get in touch I’m @RichardsRambles #1millionsteps I’ll post again when I set out again shortly on phase II. To see an album of my pictures from my one million steps challenge click here

Birds I spotted during my walk

Oystercatcher
Redshank
Little term
Common tern
Bar tailed Godwit
Ringed plover
Egret
Heron
Herring gull
Lesser black backed gull
Curlew
Shelduck
Brentgoose
Canada goose
Mute swan
Dunlin
White throat
Bull finch
Chaffinch
Blue tit
Great tit
Dunnock
Meadow pipit
Skylark
Blackbird
Song thrush
Nightingale
Cetti's warbler
Goldfinch
Blackcap
Swallow
Sand Martin
Swift
House Martin
Starling
House sparrow
Dunnock
Collared Dove
Kestrel
Wood pigeon
Crow
Jackdaw
Jay
Rook


Thursday, 16 May 2013

It's begun

Well I've begun my one million steps challenge. Earlier this year I (probably rather rashly) announced I would  set myself a personal goal to get out and enjoy this beautiful countryside we live in and also get a bit healthier into the bargain. I've planned to walk one million steps around Suffolk over the next three months and post pictures and updates from the various different scenery I come across including the wildlife there too. I hope you enjoy my ramblings and that perhaps it inspires you to join me on one of the legs of the journey.

Today began at 8.30am with a walk from Shotley walking along the north shore all the way to Manningtree. Apart from an impromtu stop in a cafe with a packet of frozen peas on my ankle it wasn't a bad start. I'll upload some pictures from my journey tomorrow - at least the weather was kind to me :)

Until the next leg,

Regards Richard